Kodak TRI-X 400 : The Timeless Legacy of a Photographic Icon
Part 2
Introduced in 1954, Kodak TRI-X 400 emerged as a revolutionary black-and-white film that redefined the possibilities of photography. Its technical brilliance and artistic versatility made it a favourite among photographers across genres, from gritty photojournalism to high-fashion editorials. Even in the digital age, TRI-X remains a symbol of analog craftsmanship, celebrated for its unique ability to balance practicality with poetic texture.
At its core, TRI-X was engineered for speed. With an ISO rating of 400, it allowed photographers to work in low-light conditions without relying on flash - a game-changer. While high-speed films often sacrificed detail for sensitivity, TRI-X transformed grain into an aesthetic asset. Its distinct, organic grain structure added depth and mood to images, a quality embraced by photographers seeking to infuse their work with raw authenticity. This adaptability extended to its pushing and pulling capabilities; TRI-X could be rated anywhere from ISO 200 to 1600, making it indispensable for photographers navigating unpredictable lighting. Fashion photographers, leveraged this flexibility to shoot editorial and ad campaigns making the most of low available light.
Susie Cave (née Bick) @susicaveofficial for Givenchy 1987 shot on Kodak TRI-X : Photo Iain Philpott
TRI-X’s generous exposure latitude further cemented its reputation. It retained detail in both shadows and highlights, forgiving minor exposure errors. This reliability, paired with its rich tonal range, produced striking contrasts: velvety blacks, crisp whites, and nuanced midtones that brought texture to fabric, skin, and architecture. Such qualities made it a favourite of fashion icons like Richard Avedon, whose minimalist portraits for Vogue relied on TRI-X’s ability to render both delicate lace and sharp tailoring with equal finesse. Similarly, Irving Penn harnessed its tonal depth to create timeless studio portraits, where the interplay of light and shadow on his subjects’ faces became as iconic as the fashions they wore.
The film’s resilience in development also broadened its appeal. Compatible with a range of developers—from Kodak D-76 to Rodinal—it allowed photographers to tailor results. Pushed processing amplified grain and contrast, a technique embraced by Helmut Newton, whose bold, provocative fashion imagery often used TRI-X’s gritty aesthetic to challenge conventions of glamour.
Beyond technical merits, TRI-X carved a cultural niche. It documented 20th-century history, from war zones (the thumbnail pic for this post was shot on a recce by me, on TRI-X rated 1600ASA at Beckton Gas Works just after Stanley Kubrick’s ‘Full Metal Jacket’ wrapped) to civil rights marches, but also shaped the visual language of fashion. Its grain became synonymous with a timeless, tactile elegance—a counterpoint to the sterile perfection of digital. Today, TRI-X endures not just for nostalgia, but as a medium that teaches photographers to see light, contrast, and the moment.
In an era dominated by pixels, Kodak TRI-X 400 stands as a testament to the artistry of analog. Its legacy lives on in the hands of those who value imperfection as beauty and grain as soul, proving that some tools transcend time to remain forever iconic.
I might just have to dust off my Nikon F3’s, wash out the dev tanks and buy a brick of TRI-X!